Bryce sent his wheel back for a repair – a branch jumped out at him, pushed the rear derailleur over the top of the cassette and pushed the chain into the spokes. It happens.
One spoke was badly damaged, and two others were scratched. I opted to only replace the one spoke as the scratches on the other two were very small and shouldn’t pose a problem.
It’s worth noting that the lacing pattern I use lays the ‘pulling’ spokes on the outside of the crossing which does two things: When under increased tension from pedaling this pattern pushes the spoke crossing away from the derailleur. Secondly, if the chain does catch (like in this instance) the direction of the spokes helps to push the chain outwards and away from further damage the rider continues to pedal.
I used a scalpel (a beautiful 60 year old English made tool with a permanent blade) to cut a hole in the tubeless tape.
Obviously with the new spoke under no tension the wheel will go out of true. I set the dial-gauge to zero on the section of rim directly opposite from the replaced spoke – this section will be unaffected by the loss of tension. I then rotate the wheel so the new spoke is at the dial-gauge and simply tighten the nipple until the gauge reads zero and the wheel is true. A quick check with the spoke tension meter shows the tension on the new spoke is the same as the surrounding spokes – it should be since the wheel was well built to begin with.
Other than tightening the one replaced spoke and nipple the wheel required no other truing and after the repair was still true to less than one-tenth of a millimeter like it was when I built it.
I then taped a small section of tubeless tape to patch the spoke nipple’s hole and the wheel is ready to go.